Travelogue: Rediscovering the Beauty of Bacolod after 41 Years

Bacolod, 41 years ago, was a city filled with simple, content, and happy people. It featured low- to mid-rise buildings, abundant nature, and a lifestyle reflective of simpler times. For the average teenager back then, social life revolved around going downtown or visiting Singcang, where Goldenfields is located. If you’re adventurous enough, venturing outside the city limits would be a good idea, like going to Silay or Talisay City, where you’ll find The Ruins. Classic! Haven’t visited it yet, but I plan to the next time I get there, when the weather is much calmer and drier.

 

Popular activities included dining at restaurants and enjoying nightlife spots downtown, such as the Spectrum disco at the Sea Breeze Hotel. Many would also gather for social drinking at haunts in Casiana, Eroreco, or simply hang out with friends at home or other places for entertainment.

 

The roads were safe enough that riding a racer bike from Mountainview Phase 2 to La Salle at 5 a.m. was okay. As I mentioned, these were  simple times, but they were certainly fun!

 

Being a teenager just out of high school, I have a newfound respect for the time in life when we all learn from our mistakes and experience life’s lessons the hard way—from being carefree and independent in junior year all the way through senior year and graduation. You get that in high school!

 

After 41 years, I felt a mix of emotions as I landed at Silay’s airport, so different from the airport I remembered in Singcang when I left in 1984. Above all, I was overcome with excitement and curiosity.

 

The first thing I noticed is the addition of establishments that dot the city, which weren’t there before I left. It was surreal but exciting to see and behold, nonetheless. And since it was nighttime when I arrived, remembering places was still jarring. In context, I left Bacolod when I was 19 years old, and now, a newly minted senior, in October 2025, I’m back in the place of my youth—priceless!

 

DOWNTOWN, BACOLOD

Visiting downtown Bacolod, at least the one I knew, brought so many fond memories. The Bacolod plaza is now undergoing some renovations, but I recognized a few buildings, like the central plaza itself and the Seabreeze Hotel. The theater on Araneta Street near LCC wasn’t there anymore. Lopue’s Araneta is still there but rocking a new image, as is Lopue’s Mandalagan.

 

The Manokan Country, previously in the downtown area, is now in the vicinity of SM City Bacolod. Felt misty. The reclamation area is now a shopping mall spot where SM City Bacolod now sits. The San Sebastian Cathedral is, of course, everlastingly the same, but still hits you with nostalgia.

 

The first night, I caught up with the Negrense Bloggers, a well-known group of bloggers in Bacolod City, who were covering the Park Inn by Radisson Bacolod, which was located right within SM City.  They were such a pleasant and kind group of people. Shoutout to Sigrid of Sigrid Says, hubby Dennis Lo, Sir Jojo Vito, Sir Ed, Dhadha, and someone special to me, named Sunshine.

For details, you can visit their individual blogs at Sunshine (Sunny Encounters), Sir Jojo Vito (Fabulous Asian Lifestyle), Sir Ed (Bacolod Lifestyle), Dhadha (Dhadha Garcia FBPage), Sigrid (Bacolod Blogger Sigrid), and Dennis (Papa D The Hubbyist)

 

Sunshine was gracious enough to be my tour guide for the whole duration of my stay, as promised.

 

I visited my HS alma mater as well with Sunshine but failed to enter and visit its premises. They allow visitors only during weekdays. Tahum na tani! (It would’ve been very nice, as I hoped!). Moreover, La Salle, Bacolod, has really changed a lot even when I was outside looking in. The chapel still looks as stunning as it did on the day I left. The entrance to the elementary wing has changed as well. The sprawling carabao grass field where we used to play siato and stick football wasn’t there anymore. In its place are some utility edifices.  Next time!

 

PAINTING THE TOWN RED

It would be a disservice if I did not mention Park Inn by Radisson Bacolod’s restaurant, where they serve great food and drinks. Thank you, Park Inn by Radisson Bacolod. We also visited Riverside Medical Center to see an old friend, Dr. Ramon Trocio, but found out that he only goes in for special schedules, so we visited good ‘ole original Bob’s Restaurant instead. Their hamburger is still the best. Additionally, the restaurant has developed aesthetically and visually, becoming much more appealing, and now boasts five additional branches all over the city.

Photos

 

My visit also happened to coincide with the Terra Madre Asia Pacific Festival event, which took place inside the city’s capitol. We visited on the last day, November 23, 2025, but the event was still filled with people, both foreigners and locals alike. If Bacolod City is famous all over the world for its Masskara Festival, Terra Madre is close by.

Photos

 

The event, already in its 21st year since 2004, is still attracting visitors, sponsors, and supporters from all over the Philippines. And 2025 was no exception. I’ve experienced a similar event in the Quezon City capitol here in Manila, but Terra Madre Asia Pacific Festival brought in a deluge of exhibitors from all over the land. Last I heard, the event also brought in chefs from various parts of the Philippines.

Terra Madre likewise attracted exhibitors from diverse organizations within the agricultural sector.

 

If Manila has Dampa, Bacolod has Sugba. Just near the Capitol is Sugba Sugba, Lacson branch, where we ate lunch. Officially, Sugba Sugba brought the resto feels to the typical casual feels of Dampa in Manila. Way to go, Bacolod City! But I’m planning to go next to Diotay’s to get the Dampa and rustic feels.

 

On succeeding days, Sunshine and I went to Chicken House (San Juan Branch) where the chicken inasal is also extremely delicious as heck, Banh Mi (SM Bacolod), Sandok, and 21 as well, which I heard is owned by the Gamboas of Silay. Surprisingly, the food was also great. Delectable, in fact, in that it appears that their special batchoy seems to have additional ingredients that brought much life to it compared to what I’ve tasted in restos here in Manila.

More Memories

 

I spent my last day with the Negrense Bloggers group at the Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf at the Ayala Mall. Thank you, guys, for the great sendoff. Maanad guid ko diri! (I will get used to being here!).

 

All in all, my stay was both productive and nostalgic, beautifully accented by warmth and welcome from new friends and acquaintances. A sense of family, so to speak. Thank you all. Thank you, Sunshine, and family!

(Photo credits go to Miss Sunshine Dacudao)

VIAJERO KULTURA PILIPINAS: BACOLOD CITY; TRAVELOGUE

The Story Behind the City of Smile’s Famous Welcome Marker

When travelers make their way into Bacolod City, primarily through the Bacolod-Silay Airport or the northern gateway of the city along the Bacolod-Murcia Road, they’re greeted by an eye-catching sight that’s become an iconic symbol of the city: the “Welcome to Bacolod—City of Smiles” signage. It’s more than just a landmark—it’s a cultural beacon that represents the warmth, charm, and festivity that define the spirit of Bacolod and its people.

The Bacolod Welcome Sign was first erected in 2018, , during a time when local leaders were boosting the city’s image as a tourism and cultural hub in Western Visayas. While Bacolod was already known as the “City of Smiles” due to its famous MassKara Festival, the city lacked a unifying structure or symbol that would serve both as a welcome gesture and a photo-op landmark for tourists.

Inspired by global examples like the Hollywood Sign in Los Angeles and the “Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas” sign, Bacolod officials and local artists wanted to create something equally iconic—but infused with Negrense character. The signage was intended to mirror not only the physical entrance to the city but also the emotional welcome that visitors experience from its people.

The “Welcome to Bacolod—City of Smiles” signage is more than just a municipal marker; it’s a powerful piece of public art that connects people to the heart of Bacolod. It tells newcomers, “You’re home here, even if just for a while.” With its bold colors, smiling mask motifs, and cultural roots, it stands as a beacon of joy, embodying everything that makes Bacolod truly unforgettable.

So, the next time you pass by it, smile. After all, you’re in the City of Smiles.

 

Driving instructions to the City of Smile’s Welcome Marker.

VIAJERO KULTURA PILIPINAS, BACOLOD CITY; HISTORY & ADVENTURES

Bacolod City’s Historic Buildings: Myths or Hidden Stories?

(Clockwise: The Ruins; Bacolod City Public Plaza; San Sebastian Cathedral; and Bacolod City Capitol Building)

 

Bacolod City, known as the “City of Smiles,” offers more than just the MassKara Festival and sweets. The city’s historic buildings, nestled beneath its vibrant exterior, weave a rich tapestry of stories. While some of these buildings are preserved, others are in a state of decay, yet they all serve as a reminder of the city’s vibrant past. The heritage structures of Bacolod have been associated with a few lesser-known stories.

 

The Ruins: A Monument to Undying Love and War’s Tragedy

Most know The Ruins in Talisay as the “Taj Mahal of Negros,” but few are aware of the heartbreak behind it. Built in the early 1900s by Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson in memory of his wife Maria Braga, the mansion was a lavish tribute to a great love. However, during World War II, Filipino guerrillas set it ablaze to prevent Japanese forces from using it as a headquarters. The skeletal beauty that remains is not just romantic—it’s a haunting reminder of war’s reach into even the most intimate spaces. Directions.

 

Balay Negrense: Beyond Sugar Barons and Social Balls

The Balay Negrense was once the home of Victor Fernandez Gaston, a wealthy sugar baron. While the house is now a museum, few know that it also served as an unofficial social hub during the sugar boom, where decisions on politics and trade were often made during opulent soirées. Rumor has it that resistance leaders used the secret tunnels beneath the house as escape routes during the Japanese occupation. Directions.

 

San Sebastian Cathedral: A Stone of Faith and Rebellion

This 19th-century baroque church stands proudly in the city center, but beneath its sacred halls lies the story of a people’s resistance. Filipino parishioners largely financed the cathedral’s construction during the Spanish colonial period, demonstrating a quiet act of defiance and resilience. It later became a refuge for revolutionaries during the Philippine Revolution and a sanctuary for families fleeing American bombings in WWII. Directions.

 

Palacio Episcopal: Political Intrigue in the Bishop’s House

Adjacent to San Sebastian Cathedral is the Palacio Episcopal (Bishop’s Palace). Beyond religious ceremonies, Japanese officers once occupied it during the war and reportedly used it for interrogations. Some say old documents hidden within its walls revealed names of local collaborators—many of which remain undisclosed to this day. Directions.

 

Negros Occidental Capitol Building: Power, Art, and Secrets in Stone

An architectural gem of the 1930s, the Capitol Building is a symbol of governance but also of hidden opulence. Beneath its neoclassical facade lie murals and sculptures by Italian artists, believed to hold allegorical meanings tied to early political aspirations. There are persistent rumors of a sealed underground chamber where Spanish-era documents and war artifacts remain entombed—awaiting rediscovery. Directions.

 

Bacolod City Public Plaza: A Landmark with a Revolutionary Past 

Plaza del 6 de Noviembre, more commonly known as Bacolod Plaza, is a well-known landmark in Bacolod City that honors the day the Spanish relinquished Negros Island to the Negros Revolutionaries on November 6, 1898. In addition to a gazebo in the middle of the plaza, which hosts concerts during festivals and other occasions, the park is dotted with four circular fountains.

This public plaza already existed when Bacolod officially became the capital of Negros Island in the 1840s. Over the years, the plaza has erected a small memorial honoring the soldiers who fought for Bacolod’s democracy during the war. Additionally, in 1938, to mark Bacolod’s chartered city status, former Philippine President Manuel L. Quezon planted a tindalo tree here. Directions.

 

These buildings are more than bricks and beams—they are silent witnesses to the triumphs, tragedies, and transformations of Bacolod City. As modernization continues, it’s vital to unearth and preserve these hidden stories, allowing future generations to connect with a past that still whispers from behind old walls.

 

VKP, BACOLOD CITY: HISTORY & ADVENTURES!

The Best Historical, Ancestral, and Legacy-Rich Locations Around Bacolod City

(Clockwise: The Ruins, Silay; Balay Negrense; Bernardino Jalandoni Museum; and The Yulo House)

Bacolod City has a profound historical and cultural significance. The city’s ancestral homes, heritage structures, and legacy-rich landmarks have a significant influence on its tourism industry and are essential to its identity.

 

Why These Places Matter for Travel & Tourism:
  • Cultural Identity: They embody the city’s rich colonial history, religious devotion, and sugar-based aristocracy.
  • Educational Value: Students, scholars, and travelers can explore Negrense lifestyle, economy, and politics.
  • Economic Boost: These sites help generate local income via tours, entrance fees, guide services, and nearby food and souvenir shops.
  • Sustainable Tourism: Promotes heritage conservation while inviting responsible tourism that appreciates Bacolod’s soul beyond its modern facade.

The following are the most significant historical, ancestral, and legacy-rich locations in Bacolod, along with their descriptions, significance, and importance to travel and tourism:

 

The Ruins (Talisay, near Bacolod)

This iconic structure is the skeletal remains of a grand Italianate mansion built in the early 1900s by Don Mariano Ledesma Lacson in memory of his wife, Maria Braga. It is made with a unique blend of concrete and egg whites, and its elegance still stands out despite being burned down during World War II. People often refer to The Ruins as the “Taj Mahal of Negros,” symbolizing undying love and resilience.

A major photo-op spot and a favorite for weddings and local history tours. It draws both local and international tourists. Directions.

 

Balay Negrense (Silay City, near Bacolod)

Balay Negrense is a preserved ancestral house-turned-museum showcasing the lifestyle of a 19th-century Negrense sugar baron family. The house was originally owned by Victor Fernandez Gaston. It highlights the opulence of the sugar industry’s golden era and the Spanish-Filipino architectural blend.

With regard to tourism, the site offers an immersive glimpse into the island’s rich sugar-based heritage, attracting heritage tourism and educational visits. Directions.

 

Bernardino Jalandoni Museum (The Pink House, Silay)

The museum’s distinctive pink exterior draws attention, concealing a wealth of family heirlooms, furniture, and a glimpse into the past of a prominent sugar family.

The Jalandoni House was the first National Historical Landmark in the City of Silay to be designated as such by the National Historical Institute on November 6, 1993. Directions.

 

The Yulo House

A two-story house constructed in the early 20th century by the late Don Mariano Yulo, a former governor and senator during the Commonwealth Period. Located in Yulo’s Park in Barangay 14, Bacolod, the house was constructed on August 10, 1919, out of high-quality lumber, has endured the passage of time, and has been used as a location for meetings of sugar barons in Negros. Unveiled last year, August 22, 2024, with the acceptance and signing of the turnover, was The Heritage Park Marker by The National Museum of the Philippines.

The house, situated in the heart of the stunning 6,000-square-meter landscape of Yulo’s Park, is also home to antique dining wares, chairs, tables, and mattresses that are utilized for a variety of state affairs. Notable figures, including the late presidents Manuel L. Quezon and Sergio Osmeña, have attended these events.

 

San Sebastian Cathedral

San Sebastian is a majestic coral stone cathedral built in the late 19th century with a baroque architectural style, located at the heart of Bacolod. The cathedral stands as a spiritual and cultural centerpiece, a witness to the city’s religious devotion and colonial past.

San Sebastian is a popular destination for pilgrims, cultural tourists, and history buffs, particularly during Holy Week and local feast days. Directions.

 

Pope John Paul II Tower

Pope John Paul II Tower is a seven-story building that commemorates the historic visit of Pope John Paul II in 1981. The structure represents Bacolod’s deep Catholic roots and the lasting impact of the papal visit.

Currently, it serves as a pilgrimage site and a symbolic landmark that offers a stunning panoramic view of the city. Directions.

 

Negros Museum

Housed in the old Provincial Capitol building, it features art, artifacts, and dioramas illustrating Negrense history, culture, and society. The museum itself serves as a custodian of the island’s heritage, especially its sugar-based economy and multicultural influences.

The Negros Museum is a must-visit for students, educators, and culturally curious travelers. Directions.

 

Hofileña Ancestral House (Silay)

The Hofileña Ancestral House is one of the oldest heritage homes in Silay and is still owned by the Hofileña family. It holds antique collections, paintings, and even a rare Rizal signature. As curator, the ancestral home preserves family legacies and stories that shaped Negros Occidental’s elite.

For interested parties, the Hofileña Ancestral House offers guided tours filled with intimate and personal storytelling, creating a nostalgic and educational experience. Directions.

 

Capitol Park and Lagoon

The Provincial Capitol Building fronts a public park adorned with iconic carabao statues and expansive green spaces. It also serves as a historical civic center and a hub for public gatherings, protests, and celebrations.

Moreover, it’s also a leisure spot for locals and a landmark that offers insight into the social and political pulse of Bacolod. Directions.

 

Other historical and ancestral treasures: Lizares Mansion, Mariano Ramos Ancestral House, Balay ni Tana Dicang, Montilla House (ruins), et al… Further reading includes historical and ancestral homes that have been converted into restaurants, as well as other rentable buildings.

VKP, BACOLOD CITY: HISTORY & ADVENTURES

Bacolod City: A Historical Perspective from the 1980s to the Present

Pre-1980s Background

Bacolod, located on Negros Island in the Western Visayas region, was originally a rural settlement founded in the 18th century. It grew rapidly during the Spanish and American colonial periods due to the sugar industry, making it the capital of Negros Occidental in 1894.

By the 20th century, it had become the center of a booming sugar economy, home to many hacienderos (sugar barons) and sacadas (seasonal workers). This economic model created stark social divides, with a wealthy elite and a struggling working class.

In the early 1980s, Bacolod and the rest of Negros Occidental plunged into economic and social turmoil due to the collapse of the sugar industry.

Monocrop Economy: The province was heavily dependent on sugar, and global sugar prices crashed in the late 70s and early 80s.

Marcos-era Mismanagement: The Philsucom-Nasutra monopoly, created under Ferdinand Marcos and run by his crony Roberto Benedicto, was accused of underpaying planters and manipulating sugar trading.

Mass Hunger and Malnutrition: Widespread famine occurred in Negros in 1985, and thousands of children died of malnutrition. Images of starving children caught national and international attention.

Social Unrest: The extreme inequality led to increased activism and insurgency, particularly from the New People’s Army (NPA). The island became a flashpoint of conflict.

 

Recovery and Reinvention (Late 1980s–1990s)

After the  EDSA People Power Revolution in 1986, which ousted Marcos, Bacolod started rebuilding:

As Marcos’ hand let go of Bacolod, new local leadership emerged, more attuned to participatory governance. NGOs, the Church, and civil society (especially groups like Task Force Sugarlandia) mobilized relief, feeding programs, and land reform advocacy.

Recognizing the danger of a monocrop economy, Bacolod began economic diversification. The retail and banking sectors began to flourish, while housing and mall developments notably increased due to the efforts of the Lopue and Ayala groups. And with information technology flourishing, the groundwork for Bacolod’s BPO sector began in the late 1990s.

 

MassKara Festival

Just as Bacolod City was beginning to rebuild its life, another tragedy struck the city. The city was mourning the Don Juan ferry disaster. As a result of this misfortune, the resilience and optimism of the Ilonggo people were highlighted by the creation of the MassKara Festival in 1980. The smiling masks became a symbol of Bacolod’s defiance and creative spirit.

Over time, it evolved into a major cultural and tourism event, significantly boosting Bacolod’s national and international image.

 

Urban and Economic Expansion in the 2000s–2010s

The Department of Information and Communications Technology (DICT) declared Bacolod a Center of Excellence for IT-BPM. Major companies like Convergys, Teleperformance, and Transcom set up operations in the city. Job creation and the rise of a young urban workforce transformed the economy.

The city expanded its roads, flyovers, and transport terminals. The Bacolod–Silay International Airport opened in 2008, replacing the old domestic airport and facilitating business and tourism.

 

Real Estate and Lifestyle

The city experienced a real estate boom, with new malls (like SM City Bacolod and Ayala Capitol Central) and residential developments. Mixed-use estates like Megaworld’s The Upper East and Vista Land’s Communicity emerged, redefining urban living.

In the 2020s to the present, successive mayors implemented transparency measures, investment incentives, and public-private partnerships. The Business One-Stop Shop (BOSS) made the city one of the most business-friendly in the country.

Bacolod started integrating smart city elements: digitized government services, smart traffic lights, and e-governance systems. The Bacolod Comprehensive Land Use Plan (CLUP) included provisions for green space, zoning, and climate adaptation.

With progress come challenges. Traffic congestion, waste management, and urban sprawl continue to be issues for the city, as do informal settlers and housing backlogs.

Today, Bacolod is one of the fastest-growing cities in the Visayas. A strong arts and design scene thrives with festivals, galleries, local fashion, and food. It’s home to prestigious institutions like the University of St. La Salle and UNO-R. Now, people from across the country (and expats) move to Bacolod for its relatively low cost of living, laid-back lifestyle, and economic opportunity.

Various international publications now recognize the city as one of the top places to live and retire in the Philippines.

VIAJERO KULTURA PILIPINAS, BACOLOD CITY: HISTORY & ADVENTURES!